streams and nullahs were still
wet and refreshing. Sal, mahua,
kochila, kendu, asan, sisso and
Arjuna predominate the forest along
with luxuriant bamboo forests. The
climate is also suited for the rare
and lovely orchids. There are 400
species of trees and climbers in
the Satakoshia forest. No wonder
that the forest is home to 180 elephants,
11tigers and 19 leopards besides
wild boars, bears and deer- chausingha(
four horned), spotted and sambars!
The gorge is the main water source
as most of the streams dry up in
summer. The gorge is widest at the
Badmul bend and is ten meters deep.
The Satkoshia Gorge Sanctuary has
an area of 795.52 sq kames and is
spread over four districts- Angul,
Cuttack, Nayagarh and Boudh. The
Mahanadi flows through hilly terrains
sand at Jamudoli in Athmalik to
Satkoshia in Dasapalla the river
path is narrow and stretches for
sata kosha. Goaldeo a part of Eastern
Ghat Mountains is situated at the
southern part of the gorge and to
the left is Baigani hill with Kamaladiha
village at the foothills. Both the
mountains are above 3000 feet high
and the scenic beauty of these green
forest clad fosters are breathtakingly
beautiful. 530 sq km Satakoshia
Gorge wildlife sanctuary and 265
sq km Mahanadi wildlife sanctuary
are both reserved forests.
We came across several open areas
and the Sal was thin and short for
the high altitude. There were several
temples devoted to the jungle goddesses
obviously to protect the villagers
from the Royal Bengal Tigers and
other wild animals. When the night
fell the mystery of the forest deepened
and even a slight twig’s fall would
send shivers down the spine! We
returned early resisting finding
a tiger face to face.
It was a lovely moonlit night and
the glorious moon splashed in the
silvery river playing hide and seeks
with us all along out return journey
to Badmul rest house. The rest house
was built when the Hirakud Dam reservoir
was constructed on the River at
Sambalpur. The nightjars called
incessantly. We were dog-tired and
the food, which was cooked by the
watchman with our provisions, was
ready and mouth watering. We slept
early recalling the red beady eyes
of the doves and the flycatchers
that seemed blinded by the jeep’s
headlight in the night.
We woke up in the morning to hear
the whispering river lapping at
the shore. The morning mists rising
from the valley had an alluring
mystery. It was lovely to watch
the mists fired by the crimson rising
sun. The sunrise and sunsets are
the most beautiful sights here when
they spread hues of gold, crimson,
purple and pink rays on the waters!
We saw giant squirrels close to
another riverside rest house called
Kuturi.
On the riverbed there were footmarks
of sambars, deer and peacocks. The
water, which looks so harmless in
fact, harbors crocodiles, monitor
lizards and snakes. We went for
a river ride on a fishing boat,
fished in the waters too. Then it
was time to come back and leave
after lunch. The wild bison with
healthy shinning hides stared at
us unmoving and defiantly. One of
them had fresh tearing marks too
from a predating animal! For those
who need a short break from the
hectic life, the Satakoshia’s Badmul;
is a dream destination.
For stay one can contact the watch
man at the site with a nominal fee
of rs10 to rupees15 per night and
for the Inspection IB at Kuturi
some ten kilometers from Badmul
also on river side the Irrigation
office at Khurda en route can be
contacted. There is a rest house
at Chhamundia too. The markets are
very close and basic necessities
can be availed. That is the beauty
of the place that despite being
so close to human habitation sound
of another automobile won’t be heard
throughout the day!
October to March is the best time
to visit as the forest changes quickly
in color and fragrance and the climate
is very cool too. Mosquito repellants
are a must because the area is malarial.
Provisions like food and water hast
to be carried along.
