the length of a grain of dhana or paddy. In an agrarian state like Orissa where the sun rules the lives of people, the natives observe the day by offering khai made with freshly cut paddy or white flower-like puffed round shaped sweets called Dhanu muan made with slices of coconut slivers, ginger and sugar to the sun god.

A month later the sun begins to move faster as if on wheels and the days become longer very rapidly. This occasion is celebrated with a fortnight-long festival called Dhanu Yatra in western Orissa. It begins with the episode of Krishna'a birth and ends with the killing of the demon king Kamsha at the hands of Krishna, his nephew.

Despite it being very windy and cold in western Orissa at this part of the year, the Dhanu Yatra festival temporarily keeps the people engrossed in the open-air theatre that forms a major part of the festival. This 11-day long festival is unique in the entire world. Imagine two stout men decked up as a demon king and his minister riding two caparisoned elephants in the lanes and by-lanes of the city amidst cheering crowds! That is how the hero of the open air theatre rules the city for 11 days. He is Kamsha, the demon king and the entire population is his subjects! The king moves through the city, delivering judgments and does not spare even government officials. He laughs loudly and makes menacing gestures that send a shiver down the spine as if he is the demon king himself!

Bargarh is where this spectacular enactment takes place. The Jira river there is renamed Yamuna for the duration of the festival and the township is transformed into the mythological Mathurapuri. An area of five kilometres is decorated to create the suitable ambience for the ancient city of Mathura. Amapalli village becomes Gopapura where Young Krishna grew up. A makeshift platform in the form of a king's fort is constructed where cultural functions are organized every night.

Dhanu means bow and it symbolizes the strength of the brave. In the story of Kamsha, the demon king masterminds the killing of his young nephews, Krishna and Balaram, in a martial arts test involving bows. But as prophesized, the demon king is killed by his nephew. The festival was started in 1947, and with immense popular support, it today claims a rightful place on the tourism map of Orissa.

The role of Kamsha is enacted by an able performer, who not only has an impressive physique but also an excellent command over Sanskrit and a good delivery. When he explodes into fiery dialogues or admonishes the officials for dereliction of duty, or bursts into laughter, the spectators are mesmerized. They throng the town in thousands to watch and revel in the performance where they are also treated as subjects of the king. Their complaints, if any, are heard by the virtual dictator, who sometimes demands public explanations from the authorities. The king of the fortnight can lash out at any one, without any regard to class or position.

The minister who follows the king on another decked-up elephant adds to the flavour by instigating the king, by jesting and humouring the masses as well. And king Kamsha slaps fines even on the visiting chief minister, much to the amusement of all gathered. No offence is taken and no one holds any grudge. Kamsha Maharaj enjoys immunity from prosecution from the local administration. That is why contemporary issues, social protests and sarcasm play a very vital role.

The roles of the legendary figures are given to the most befitting persons who consider it their good fortune to be selected. They rehearse their roles quite in advance and abstain from earthly pleasures. They observe strict vegetarianism and perform their roles with dedication.

The drama begins with the episode when Krishna is born and carried secretly to Devaki's home and ends when the brothers visit their uncle Kamsha. The boys wander around and perform miracles like straightening a hunchback woman. Then enter the armoury where Krishna picks up a huge iron bow, which cannot be bent. Sound effects rumble through the city like thunder. Kamsha has the secret of his immortality concealed inside the bow and seeing it in Krishna's hands, he seethes in anger. But Krishna leaps on to Kamsha's throne and kills him, ending the drama. In the theatre the killing scene is enacted by setting up an effigy which is burnt by a flaming arrow.

During the fortnight that the festival lasts, people throng the city to trade their wares and enjoy the entertainment. The harvest is over, and rural folk are relatively free at this time. Every householder looks forward eagerly to greet Kamsha when he rides past on his elephant and request him to stop by their homes and partake of sweetmeats. And as if he is the real king, they release their pent-up grievances expecting to be heard with patience and given justice by the almighty king. Since every resident becomes a part of this open-air theatre, the festival is unique and not seen in this form in the entire world.